A face-to-face with owner and jewelry buyer of London Kabiri, Nathalie. A great point of view to learn what’s happening on the market, what does she look for and which is the new approach to buy fine jewelry. New names? Of course we got them!
How do you choose your jewelry designers? What a designer must have to be in Kabiri and what a brand must have to be more appealing to your client?
NK – It has to be suitable for a certain aesthetic sensibility. There are a lot of jewellery designers out there – our job is to choose the best of the best.
What do you sell more, fine or fashion jewelry? And at what price range?
NK – 90% of our sales now come from fine jewellery. Although in quantity fashion jewellery still wins.
What is your entry price and the top price?
NK – Entry price point – £30. Top price can be anything. We do lots of bespoke generated by our trunk shows. Most expensive piece sold so far £85,000
How would you define this 2014 in terms of jewelry sales?
NK – Good – Led mostly by internationals and a returning British client seeking the unusual.
Is your client from UK or you have mainly an international clientele?
NK – International
Let’s talk about trends and style. What is the trend for fine and for fashion jewelry now?
NK – Fine jewellery – return to white gold after years of lots of pink gold. Geometric shapes are still good. Less is more sensibility when it comes to wearing jewelry.
Any expectations for next year? What are you looking at?
NK – Bringing in a bespoke service. More of our collection – ‘dressed’. More tradeshows – looking for cool higher value collections with a great story!
Any new names you have introduced recently? And for 2015? Is there any ‘evergreen’ at Kabiri?
NK – Bijoux de Famille – which is amazing – for new season. Eshvi is just growing stronger every season. Ofée – their earring bar concept – is really in tune with the times. Evergreen – you mean classic? Dafnes – we love great entry point – and incredibly chic. Fine jewellery – Van Rycke – is always a staple for us.
How much your online and off-line shop are integrated? Is there any difference between the two platforms in terms of volume of sales and type of jewels?
NK – Online and off line are integral to each other.
A bit about Kabiri. Did you have to change your vision in the last years? How much has the jewelry market changed in the last few years?
NK – It has changed so much – and for the better. More choice. The cons of this is that because of the surfeit of imagery on twitter and Instagram – that lots of things look the same. However generally the movement towards more independent fine jewellery designers has meant that there is more appetite. In a way it has made us be more discerning in our edit. We certainly do less fashion jewellery – however this means we can be more to the point with the edit. We don’t aim to be a supermarket of jewellery. Each brand I bring in I would like to have a long term relationship with – otherwise there is no point. I do not want one season wonders. I want longevity. We have decided to work at the upper end of the market – however that still does not include the average person. We are an aspirational brand but not a snobby one – hopefully we have some humour.
Text by Federica Frosini