A special attention is drown to these young artists, who are probably not jet fully aware of being the actresses in the new aesthetic and conceptual plan of the contemporary jewelry design. Here we’re not talking about the preciousness of jewel’s materials, which holds the reins of the already “exploited” idea of exclusivity and uniqueness. Here we are in a narrow niche, a true stylistic enclave, where the value of an idea, of a concept or of a jewel’s design planning quality goes beyond the material one.
Increasingly often the “fil rouge” that links their works is the interaction, the synergy and the integration of ornament-body. Jewels are sculptures for bodies, décor for souls and silhouette’s ideal partner. There could be different materials, different ways to interpret, wear and recount them, but what counts for all is the idea of creating something which goes beyond the border of preciousness in order to show how, even unusual working and material, can evaluate a body’s beauty.
Stephanie Chloe Bila in her ‘The Human Body as a Site for Intervention’ focuses on structures and shapes and chooses the soft, malleable, pliable beech-wood to create encircling architectures. Body is both the object of desire and the source of inspiration in Stephanie Van Zwam’s creations-performances, where she chooses the air as character to recount jewel’s idea of mutability: in her living performance “Airborne Collection” the mutability of objects is given in some cases by compressed air, in other cases by immobility of the air or by its own movement.
Wenting Chen’s felt macro necklaces, Ji Sun Chae’s cardboard body and head ornaments or the sharp-cornered ones by Grace Lepard are instead oversize, they change according to the body shape. Plastic and wicker maxi collars by Zelda Passini are provocative but full of historic culture, while the geometric lightness of the German Charlotte Cort Koppel and the desire to explore the relationship man-nature of Crystal Burden are the aspects which cross the border where harmony of shapes, linearity and sobriety of movement and sinuosity of design are rewarded. We should better not let these girls out of our sights.
Stephanie Chloe Bila, Ji Sun Chaen, Stephanie Van Zwam, Wenting Chen, Crystal Burden, Zelda Passini, Grace Lepard, Charlotte Cort Koppel. Here is a list of talented designers coming out of the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London.