The art of the body ornament has already become a part of modern Western culture and as of late, jewellery has given us unexpected satisfaction. An example? Forget the ever classic pearls arranged symmetrically against the ear lobes unless they stretch along the entire ear like a string of pearls, instantly becoming a precious ear cuff.
Chains with gold and silver mesh are another example, as they will never go out of style; they are now worn like a bib necklace that covers the shoulders, crosses the chest and wraps around the waist.
Basically, it seems that every part of the body has inspired jewellery designers to explore new shapes, materials, and overturn traditional jewellery rules. In fact, there are only two rules to follow: enhance and decorate. In this regard, we have chosen three designers on the international scene whose body pieces represent a daring and experimental artistic journey.
IDRISS GUELAI Born in France, but raised in Tuscany, Idriss presents a body cage that doesn’t miss an inch of the female body. The Tuscan designer processes recycled materials like metal, ceramic and feathers using his fervid imagination and his background as a costumer and interior designer to create explosive combinations. Idriss crafts jewelled masks; arm bracelets embellished with Swarovski crystals; and most recently, couture dresses reminiscent of Paco Rabanne‘s chainmail gowns, but with a more contemporary feel. His work also tributes robotics and makes a strong high-tech impact.
GINA MELOSI Her delicate and sensual body ornaments have always been inspired by nature. Whether it is a shape or a texture, Gina reinterprets her native Texas with her glamorous style. Glass chips, rocks and minerals are presented through metal reproductions. The Texan designer uses an inverted process, or rather, she takes raw metal and oxidizes or rusts it. She essentially works the metal giving her jewellery an intimate and personal flair. Hand bracelets, bib necklaces and double and triple rings complete any outfit. Her body ornaments have a more conceptual feel, but are fashionably appealing.
HORSECKA Anna Horsecka is a Polish designer whose strength lies in bringing out the best of materials. The collection that sets this brand apart is Ophelia: a series of plastrons made of metal. The unique feature of the jewel is the 3D effect achieved through the serial repetition of geometric modules and alternating solids and voids. The designer is inspired by things in nature like sea anemones, microorganisms or shells. Romanticism is broken up by the colour black as well as metal processing, which gives the body ornament a rock feel.
Text by Giulia Romani
February 18th, 2014